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PHOTOGRAPHY SPECIAL

The pioneering photographs of William Klein

How the late iconoclast’s striking city scenes and subversive fashion shoots transformed modern photography

Isabella + Opéra + Blank Faces, for Vogue, Paris, 1963
Isabella + Opéra + Blank Faces, for Vogue, Paris, 1963
© WILLIAM KLEIN
The Sunday Times

From innovative fashion imagery for Vogue to street photography that captured the febrile energy of city life, William Klein was an iconoclast whose seven-decade career changed modern photography. Born in New York in 1926, Klein — who died aged 96 in September last year — arrived in Paris in 1948 and trained as an abstract painter. In 1954 a Vogue art director came across his work and Klein started taking pictures for the magazine. His raw, experimental and often provocative images of New York, Paris, London and Tokyo sometimes appalled critics (one such series on Soho in London appeared in The Sunday Times Magazine in 1980). Perhaps Klein’s most famous image was Gun 1, 103rd Street — taken in New York in 1954, depicting two young boys, one brandishing a handgun. Unsettling and unflinching, it encapsulates his bold approach. As do the Rubensesque swimmers he discovered at a municipal pool in Paris: strong and defiant, his subjects subvert conventional notions of beauty. His fashion photography, meanwhile, broke the mould in telling stories that were barely about the clothes. A multifaceted artist, he was also a celebrated film-maker, famed for documentaries such as Muhammad Ali: The Greatest (1975).

William Klein: Yes is published by Thames & Hudson on Thursday at £65

Club Allegro Fortissimo, Paris, 1990
Club Allegro Fortissimo, Paris, 1990
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Café Terrace, Paris, 1980
Café Terrace, Paris, 1980
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Gun 1, 103rd Street, New York, 1954
Gun 1, 103rd Street, New York, 1954
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Cineposter, Tokyo, 1961
Cineposter, Tokyo, 1961
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Les Liaisons Dangereuses and Miscellaneous Ikebana, Tokyo, 1961
Les Liaisons Dangereuses and Miscellaneous Ikebana, Tokyo, 1961
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Simone + Marines, Pont Alexandre III, for Vogue, Paris, 1961
Simone + Marines, Pont Alexandre III, for Vogue, Paris, 1961
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Chinese New Year, New York, 1955
Chinese New Year, New York, 1955
© WILLIAM KLEIN
Pope Appears, Rome, 1956
Pope Appears, Rome, 1956
© WILLIAM KLEIN